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Removing and Replacing Air Conditioner Compressor on 2000-03 Eurovan

February 3, 2015 2 Comments HVAC Ken Wilford

It seems like for some reason the OE Eurovan AC compressor doesn’t last. I have had customers with very low mileage vans and the compressor starts failing. Usually it will stop blowing cold, or it will start making a clicking noise at the compressor, or both. Also I have seen them do the cold, hot, cold, hot thing. A good thing to do first, if the compressor isn’t making a noise, is to just see if the refrigerant is low and have it topped off and see if that fixes the problem. If not or if the compressor is making a noise then it is time to replace the compressor.

Please note these instructions are for the 2000-2003 Eurovan with the AXK engine only. Not the same as the earlier versions of the Eurovan although the earlier VR6 Eurovan should be similar there are some differences.

Jack up the front of the van on both sides.
Remove the lower engine tin.
Remove the upper engine cover. (three star drive bolts)
Remove the serpentine belt.
Discharge refrigerant or have it evacuated.
Loosen 13mm bolt near bottom of alternator bracket.
Remove lowest bolt in compressor.
Pry the alternator bracket and alternator up and away from the compressor.
Remove the two rear lines from the compressor with an allen wrench. (watch out for oil coming out of the compressor).
Now remove the other two bolts from the compressor and pry it free. Be sure to keep a hand on it so that you can be sure not to drop it on your head.
Flush the system with AC Flush you can buy at your local NAPA. You only really need to do this if your compressor has failed internally (clicking noises or locked up).
Reinstallation is the reverse of removal. The rebuilt compressor that you bought from Van-Again is already full of oil and will need no additional oil put into the system.
You should also replace your receiver drier.
This is located underneath the condenser which is located behind the front grille. Remove the three screws holding the upper front grille in place and remove it.

You will see the power steering cooler which is attached to the front of the condenser. Remove the two torx head screws that hold this in place and move it to the side (you don’t have to take the lines off).

There is a 10mm bolt that holds the two AC lines to the side of the condenser. Remove this. Then remove the screws that are holding the condenser to the radiator. There is one down low to the left.

Remove the torx head screw that holds the two AC lines into the condenser and pull them free. Now you should be able to pick the condenser straight up and tilt it toward you and out.

Lay the condenser onto a flat table and you will see the drier on the bottom.

Remove the two allen head bolts that hold the drier lines to the drier.

Now remove the two phillips head screws that hold the drier clamps to the condenser.

Slide the two clamps off of the old drier. You will see that there is some tape on the old drier that tightens the clamps up on the drier. Put some new tape on the new drier as it doesn’t come taped. A couple wraps of packing tape should do it.

Slide the clamps on the new drier and reinstall it to the condenser.

Reinstall is reverse of removal.

Finally you may also want to replace your expansion valve so here is how to do that.

The expansion valve is a small aluminum block that is located near the firewall of the engine on the passenger side of the engine bay. You will see the two AC fitting right near it.

Remove the torx screw that is right between the two AC lines and pull the two lines out toward you.

Now you will see two small allen screws inside the aluminum block of the expansion valve.

Remove these two allen screws and the block will pull off of the AC lines.

Inspect all of your o-rings while you are doing all of this work. If you see any of them replace any suspect ones.

Finally, pull a vacuum on the system for at least 30 mins.

Charge the system with about two cans of R134a (it takes a hair more but you may or may not want to add more). Check your system pressure. On the low side you should see between 50-60 psi and between 125-135 psi on the high side on a 70 degree day. It should also be blowing cold out of the vents when you have the 2 cans in there.

That should be about it. If you need any parts please feel free to use us at Van-Again. Here is a list of the parts from us:
7D0820805JX– Rebuilt Compressor
7D0820191– Receiver Drier
701820679A– Expansion Valve
CP3009– O-ring assortment
System takes 700 grams of R134a.


Ken Wilford September 9, 2015

It could just be a coincidence. Is the alternator the same age as the compressor? Usually if I were replacing a compressor for a customer I wouldn't check the alternator if it was working fine unless it was making noise, etc. Mechanics do the best job they can, but they don't have x-ray vision or a crystal ball. We sometimes can catch known failure items ahead of time because we have seen things fail in the past (learned from someone else's break down) but that is about it. At least you shouldn't have to worry about the alternator or the AC compressor again for a while.

Jon September 2, 2015

My 2002 Eurovan Weekender just had the a/c compress replaced for $1200. 4 Days later my alternator bearing locks up and breaks the serpentine belt in a whirl of smoke. It is hard to assume that this was just a coincidence. He had to remove serpentine belt to put in the new AC compressor correct ? Could it be related and if so how. Your wisdom is so appreciated. Sincerely, Jon Webb 360-261-9400

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